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Bringing History Back to Life

Every piece at Hobbs Modern undergoes meticulous restoration—not to erase its history, but to honor it. We preserve the soul of vintage furniture while ensuring it's ready for another lifetime of use.


THE PHILOSOPHY

Restoration as Reverence

A 60-year-old Hans Wegner chair has stories to tell. Sunlight that faded its finish. Dinner conversations around a Finn Juhl table. The daily ritual of opening a George Nakashima dresser drawer.

Our job isn't to make vintage furniture look brand new—it's to respect what time has taught these pieces while preparing them for the decades ahead.

We remove damage, not character. We fix flaws, not patina. We restore function and beauty while preserving the authentic qualities that make vintage furniture irreplaceable.


OUR EXPERTISE

45+ Years of Combined Experience in Furniture Restoration.

Our restoration team brings decades of specialized knowledge to every piece:

  • Structural engineering for mid-century joinery and design

  • Wood science understanding how different species age, move, and respond to treatment

  • Period-correct finishing techniques matching original factory methods when possible.

  • Veneer work requiring patience, precision, and an artist's eye

  • Upholstery honoring original design intent while using modern, lasting materials

We're not general furniture refinishers. We're specialists in mid-century modern restoration, with deep knowledge of how these specific pieces were originally made—and how to restore them properly.


WHAT WE'VE SEEN (AND FIXED)

It's rare for a piece to survive 40+ years without acquiring some battle scars. We've encountered:

☑️ Dresser legs repeatedly knocked by vacuum cleaners

☑️ Drawers that stick, or fall apart when opened

☑️ Cracked, lifted, or missing veneer

☑️ Countless dog-chewed chair legs (they love mid-century teak)

☑️ Water rings, sun damage, and decades of accumulated wear

☑️ Wobbly joints from wood movement and glue failure

☑️ Missing hardware, brackets, and structural components

☑️ Amateur repair attempts using inappropriate materials

☑️ Deteriorated foam, spring systems, and upholstery

☑️ Broken shock mounts in Eames lounges

☑️ Damaged Finish from improper cleaning products

Every piece presents a puzzle. Solving it is what we do.


OUR RESTORATION PROCESS

Step 1: Assessment & Planning

Before we touch a piece, we study it.

Structural Evaluation:

  • Are joints loose or broken?

  • Do drawers slide properly, or do runners need replacement?

  • Are shock mounts (Eames chairs) functional?

  • Is hardware original, missing, or incorrectly replaced?

  • Does veneer need repair or replacement?

  • Are there hidden structural issues?

Finish Assessment:

  • Can the existing finish be revived, or must it be removed?

  • What type of finish was originally used? (oil, lacquer, shellac)

  • How deeply is damage penetrating?

  • Are there layers of incorrect refinishing to remove?

Historical Research:

  • What were the original factory finishing techniques?

  • What materials and colors were period-correct?

  • Are there modifications that should be reversed?

This planning phase determines our restoration strategy—and ensures we're making decisions that honor the piece's original design.


Step 2: Disassembly

Most pieces are completely dismantled before restoration begins.

This allows us to:

  • Access hidden damage in joints and internal structures

  • Strip finish thoroughly without damaging adjacent components

  • Repair structural issues properly (you can't fix a joint that's still assembled)

  • Replace worn glue in every connection point

  • Clean decades of dust and debris from inside drawers and cabinets

  • Inspect every component individually

Disassembly also reveals construction techniques, and period materials that confirm attribution.

We label and mark every component. Reassembly must be exact.


Step 3: Finish Removal

When stripping is necessary (most pieces), we use professional-grade chemical strippers

Our process:

  • Controlled application that lifts finish without damaging wood

  • Multiple applications for pieces with layers of old finish

  • Hand scraping in detailed areas and carvings

  • Neutralization to ensure no chemical residue remains

  • Inspection to verify complete removal without wood damage

Some finishes (original oil finishes in good condition) can be revived rather than removed. When possible, we preserve original factory finishing—it's part of the piece's history and authenticity.


Step 4: Surface Repair

Now the wood reveals its true condition—and we address every imperfection.

Steaming:
For dents and compressions, we use steam to swell wood fibers back to their original position. This is a slow, patient process—but it removes damage without adding foreign material.

Filling:
Deep scratches, gouges, and areas where wood is actually missing require filling. We use professional wood fillers that accept stain and blend invisibly with surrounding wood.

Veneer Repair:
Lifted veneer is re-glued using period-appropriate techniques. Missing veneer is replaced with vintage-sourced veneer of the same species—not modern veneer that won't color-match. We harvest veneer from unsalvageable vintage pieces to ensure authentic grain and patina.

Structural Repairs:

  • Broken joints are re-glued with professional wood adhesives

  • Missing wood is replaced with matching species

  • Cracked components are stabilized

  • Drawer slides are repaired or replaced

  • Hardware mounting points are reinforced


Step 5: Sanding

Sanding is where patience separates professional restoration from amateur refinishing.

We sand in stages using progressively finer grits:

  • Fine grits (220): Prepare wood for staining by creating uniform porosity

  • Final grits (320+): Achieve glass-smooth finish between stain/finish coats

Hand sanding vs. machine:
We use both, depending on the piece. Flat surfaces can be machine-sanded efficiently. Curved areas, edges, and details require hand sanding to preserve original shaping.

The goal: Perfectly smooth wood with no scratches, no uneven areas, and no machine marks—just clean, raw wood ready to accept finish.


Step 6: Color Application

This is where science meets art.

Different wood species require different approaches:

  • Teak: We use special formulation of oil stains to bring back color. 

  • Walnut: May need light staining to even color variation

  • Rosewood: Typically oil-finished to showcase natural figure

  • Oak: Often stained to achieve period-correct color

Our philosophy: Use the least amount of color necessary to achieve a see through finish so the natural wood grain remains visible.

We prefer:

  • Penetrating oils that enhance natural color

  • Thin stain applications built up in layers

  • Transparent finishes that don't obscure grain

We avoid:

  • Heavy, opaque stains that hide wood character

  • Single heavy coats that look artificial

  • Colors that don't match the wood species and period

Color matching: When pieces have multiple wood components (different parts age differently), we carefully balance color so the finished piece looks cohesive—not like a patchwork.


Step 7: Protective Finishing

The final finish protects your investment and brings out the wood's beauty.

Our finish of choice: Pre-catalyzed lacquer or oil 

These professional finishes offer:

  • Durability: Resistant to water, and daily use

  • Appropriate sheen: Matte to satin finish typical of period pieces

  • Easy maintenance: Can be cleaned and maintained for decades

Application process:

  • Multiple thin coats (never one thick coat)

  • Sanding between coats for perfect smoothness

  • Built-up protection that's durable but not plastic-looking

  • Final rubbing to achieve appropriate sheen level

We don't use:

  • Polyurethane (too plastic, wrong look for mid-century)

  • Shellac alone (beautiful but not durable enough)

  • Wax as a primary finish (requires constant maintenance) and offers no protection. 


Step 8: Touch-Up & Color Correction

Even after careful finishing, some areas may need adjustment:

  • Filled areas that didn't take stain identically to surrounding wood

  • Repaired veneer that needs blending

  • Color variations between components

  • Areas where grain needed subtle enhancement

We use artist-grade touch-up techniques:

  • Careful color matching under multiple lighting conditions

  • Grain painting where repairs need to blend invisibly

  • Toning or glazing to balance color across the piece

  • Final protective coating over touch-ups

The goal: You shouldn't be able to see where repairs were made. The piece should look cohesive, balanced, and authentically vintage—not obviously repaired.


Step 9: Upholstery (When Applicable)

For seating pieces, we approach upholstery with the same care as wood restoration.

Materials we use:

  • High-density foam engineered for longevity (original foam deteriorates over time)

  • Down feathers when appropriate to design

  • Period-appropriate fabrics or high-quality leather

  • Proper spring systems restored or replaced

  • Webbing and support rebuilt to factory specifications

Our approach:

  • Maintain original profile and comfort characteristics

  • Use materials that will last decades, not years

  • Honor designer's intent for proportion and line

  • Offer guidance on fabric selection that complements the piece

We can work with your fabric selections or recommend options that suit the piece's style and period.


Step 10: Reassembly & Final Inspection

The piece comes back together with obsessive attention to detail.

  • Every joint is properly glued and clamped

  • Hardware is reinstalled (original when possible, period-correct replacements when necessary)

  • Drawers are fitted to slide smoothly

  • All components are aligned 

  • Mechanisms are tested for proper function

Final inspection checklist:

✓ All structural repairs are solid

✓ Finish is even, smooth, and properly cured

✓ Color is balanced and appropriate

✓ Hardware functions properly

✓ Drawers slide smoothly

✓ Piece is stable and level

✓ All surfaces are clean and ready for delivery

✓ Any touch-ups are invisible

✓ The piece looks and functions beautifully


THE MATERIALS WE USE

Why Professional-Grade Matters

You won't find our materials at a hardware store. We use industrial-grade restoration products developed for professional furniture finishing:

Adhesives:

  • Industrial-grade Adhesives 

  • Specialized veneer glues for invisible bonds

Stains & Dyes:

  • Professional wood dyes for even penetration

  • Gel stains for controlled application

  • Custom-mixed colors to match specific woods

Finishes:

  • Pre-catalyzed lacquers (professional-grade protection)

  • Rubbing compounds for perfect sheen

Veneer:

  • Vintage-sourced veneer from period pieces

  • Same species matching for authentic grain

  • Better color compatibility than modern veneer

The difference: Professional materials create finishes that last decades, not years. They look authentic because they use similar chemistry to original factory finishes. And they can be maintained and repaired if needed in the future.


OUR RESTORATION PHILOSOPHY

Preserve, Don't Erase

We believe in honest restoration—making pieces beautiful and functional while respecting their history.

What we preserve:

  • Original patina where appropriate

  • Evidence of authentic age

  • Designer's original intent

  • Period-correct finishing techniques

  • Historical integrity

What we remove:

  • Damage that compromises function or beauty

  • Failed finishes that no longer protect

  • Inappropriate repairs or modifications

  • Structural issues that threaten longevity

What we don't do:

  • Make vintage pieces look brand new (that erases their story)

  • Use inappropriate modern materials

  • Over-restore to the point of losing authenticity

  • Cut corners with inferior products

The result: Furniture that looks authentically vintage, functions perfectly, and will last for generations.


RESTORATION vs. CONSERVATION

There's a difference between museum conservation (preserving as-is) and functional restoration (preparing for daily use).

Museum pieces:

  • Stabilized but not refinished

  • Preserved in current state

  • Protected from further deterioration

  • Not intended for daily use

Our restored pieces:

  • Fully functional for daily use

  • Finishes renewed to protect wood

  • Structural issues completely resolved

  • Beautiful enough for your home, strong enough for real life

We restore furniture to be lived with, used, and enjoyed—not just looked at. These pieces were designed for life, and we make sure they're ready for it.


WHY PROFESSIONAL RESTORATION MATTERS

The Cost of Amateur Work

We regularly encounter pieces that have been poorly restored or refinished:

Common amateur mistakes:

❌ Sanding through veneer (irreversible damage)

❌ Using wrong finish products (polyurethane over teak)

❌ Staining too dark (obscures wood grain)

❌ Skipping proper wood preparation

❌ Not addressing structural issues

❌ Using hardware store products that fail

❌ Over-sanding edges and details

The result: Diminished value, compromised appearance, and sometimes damage that's difficult or impossible to reverse.

Professional restoration:

  • ✓ Preserves value

  • ✓ Honors original design

  • ✓ Uses appropriate materials and techniques

  • ✓ Creates lasting results

  • ✓ Can be maintained for decades

The investment in proper restoration pays dividends in longevity, beauty, and value preservation.


CUSTOM RESTORATION SERVICES

Do You Own a Piece That Needs Restoration?

While most of our restoration work is performed on pieces in our inventory, we occasionally accept custom restoration projects for pieces our clients already own.

We can help with:

  • Mid-century modern furniture requiring expert restoration

  • Pieces by known designers (Wegner, Eames, Nakashima, Juhl, etc.)

  • Structural repairs on vintage furniture

  • Refinishing and color correction

  • Veneer repair and replacement

  • Period-appropriate reupholstery guidance

Contact us to discuss:

  • The piece and its condition

  • Your restoration goals

  • Timeline and pricing

  • Whether we're the right fit for the project

We're selective about custom work to ensure we can deliver the quality and attention your piece deserves.


CARING FOR YOUR RESTORED PIECE

Once your furniture is home, simple care preserves its beauty:

Daily Care:

  • Dust with soft, dry cloth

  • Avoid harsh cleaners or polishes

  • Use coasters and placemats

  • Keep out of direct sunlight (fading)

  • Maintain moderate humidity (prevents cracking)

Occasional Maintenance:

  • Clean with barely-damp cloth

  • Tighten any hardware if needed

  • Address spills immediately

  • Clean with OZ polish (Mohawk product)

What to avoid:

  • Silicone-based polishes (build up residue)

  • Harsh chemicals or ammonia

  • Excessive water or moisture

  • Extreme temperature or humidity changes

With basic care, your restored piece will remain beautiful for decades—and can be enjoyed by the next generation.


THE RESULT: FURNITURE THAT LASTS

Our goal is simple: make furniture that's ready for another lifetime of use.

Not furniture that looks good for a few years and then degrades. Not pieces held together with shortcuts and hope. Not finishes that need constant maintenance.

Furniture that:

  • Functions perfectly

  • Looks authentically beautiful

  • Withstands daily use

  • Requires minimal maintenance

  • Preserves its value

  • Honors its design legacy

That's restoration done right.

When you bring a Hobbs Modern piece into your home, you're not just getting vintage furniture—you're getting furniture that's been given a second life by people who care deeply about craft, authenticity, and longevity.


QUESTIONS ABOUT RESTORATION?

We're always happy to discuss our restoration process, explain specific techniques, or talk about how we approach particular pieces.

Contact Nicole Hobbs:
📞 (619) 300-3551
📧 nicole@hobbsmodern.com